Saigon for culture vultures
By Christina Reed,
Vietnam History Museum has fascinating displays
Both hot and hectic, once you get passed the frenzied traffic and choking air pollution it’s obvious that Saigon is quickly transforming from an old city, steeped in traditional culture and customs, into a modern metropolis.
Although it has not yet caught up with capitalist gleam of Shanghai or Bangkok, newly-built shopping malls and luxury hotels represent the shape of things to come. The architecture across the city is stitched together with a combination of Chinese and American influence, as pagodas sit juxtaposed with tall contemporary office skyscrapers.
Despite the feeling of newfound affluence the city evokes, with signs of capitalism in abundance and young cosmopolitan inhabitants, behind the bright lights and big city glitz, many Vietnamese traders continue to shun modernity in favour of traditional traits. A stroll through dim alleyways reveals backstreet tailors operating foot-peddled sewing machines, noodle-makers and outdoor barbers; all signs that traditional wheeling and dealing lives on.
Well-heeled culture vultures seeking a glance into the real Saigon should make their way to the Ho-Chi-Minh Museum, in Duong Nguyen Tat Thanh, Dist. 4. For just 10,000 dong visitors will be transported back in time to discover the life story of Vietnam’s father, Ho Chi Minh. It’s argued that the building’s architecture, which combines both Vietnamese and French colonial styles, makes this museum worth a visit more for the structure itself than the artefacts showcased inside. More on Saigon museums.
The Museum of Vietnamese History offers visitors a chance to discover the lives of Vietnam’s ancestors with a collection of history from the Cham and Khmer people who settled in the area before it became established as Vietnam. The glass cases house artefacts from the country’s 2,000 years documented history. The museum is worth a visit simply for its serene botanical gardens and the chance to escape the bustle of the city traffic.
After reminiscing of Vietnam’s days of old, a stroll down Le Duan Boulevard, lined with stately trees, will find you at the Presidential Palace where Nguyen Van Thieu lived during his nine-year reign. Though there are often tourists snapping photos at the front gate, if you bother to venture inside you will feel as though you have the whole of this grand residence all to yourself. Underground military bunkers still hold maps which show the position of the enemy. The huge ballroom on the top floor, a movie theatre and gambling saloon sat beside lavish reception rooms serve to remind visitors why the North Vietnamese were triumphant in their battle.
Nghia An Hoi Quan Pagoda is lavishly decorated
For temple lovers, Nghia An Hoi Quan Pagoda is arguably the most spectacular place of worship in the city. Decorated lavishly with huge incense coils hanging from the ceiling, a celebration is held here on the 14th day of the first lunar month as offerings are made to give thanks to the spirits and traditional dances are staged in the temple grounds. More on Saigon temples.
Leave an entire afternoon free to explore Cho Lon, Saigon’s answer to Chinatown. Here you will find the oldest and most mystic part of the city. The sheer variety of goods sold in the hot, cramped Binh Tay market is astounding and offers remarkable insight into modern Vietnamese life.
Saigon wins the battle hands-down against Hanoi in terms of nightlife. Although it is well-known for its vast array of girlie bars, the city offers many different types of venue open until the wee hours of the morning. Teahouses across the city present a curious fusion of live performances by Vietnamese and international artists.
Theatre lovers who enjoy a modern twist on traditional dramatics should head to the newly-opened musical, Xin chào. The performance combines dance and martial arts to showcase stories from Vietnamese history. The show blends reality with fantasy as it retells the legendary Vietnamese tale of a romance between the Au Co fairy and Lac Long Quan dragon. The myth says that their affair resulted in the birth of the first Vietnamese people. The show has been described as a Vietnamese version of the critically acclaimed Cirque de Soleil.
Housing the oldest of the Vietnamese performing arts, and well worth your time, is the traditional water puppet theatre at Thao Dien Village. The age old form of entertainment is combined with a dining experience which is not only perfect for the whole family, but provides the perfect way to end a long day of exploring the city.
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